SOURCES 


OF   TIN-:- 


HISTORY  OF  OREGON. 


VOLUME  I,  NUMBER  I, 


Contributions  of  the  Department  of  Economics  and  History 

of  the 


University  of  Oregon. 
F.  G.  YOUNG,   Editor. 


Journal   of   Hedorem   Crawford. 


An  account  of  his  trip  across  the   plains   with  the  Oregon 
Pioneers  of   1842. 


A  few  sets  of  accounts  found  in  connection  with  the 
Journal   are  added. 


EUGENE. 

STAR  JOB  OFFICE. 

1897. 


o'H- 


EDITORIAL  NOTES. 


GENERAL  : — 

The  printing  and  distribution  of  the  primary  sources  of 
the  history  of  the  Pacific  Northwest  is  calculated  to  promote  the 
cause  of  the  history  in  Oregon  and  throughout  our  country  in 
several  distinct  and  important  directions. 

Pioneers  and  their  descendants  will  through  this  means  be 
brought  to  an  adequate  appreciation  of  much  valuable  material 
not  yet  utilized.  This  will  be  preserved  and  rendered  available 
to  future  generations  of  students. 

The  achievement  of  an  intrepid,  resolute,  and  capable  people — 
the  Oregon  pioneers — will  thus  come  to  be  truly  and  duly  recog- 
nized. 

A  remarkable  period  of  our  country's  expansion,  one  in  which 
the  national  spirit  was  at  its  best,  will  be  made  instructive. 

The  youth  of  the  Pacific  Northwest  must  now  draw  his  first 
historical  inspiration  from  the  exploits,  struggles,  and  state- 
-  building  of  men  on  the  far  away  Atlantic  seaboarc}^,  yet  his  own 
home  section  of  the  common  country  was  the  scene  of  deeds  as 
heroic  and  effective,  animated  by  motives  even  more  youthful. 
The  whole  course  of  development  from  discovery  and  exploration 
to  the  establishment  of  a  self-centered  republic  was  accomplished 
here  as  well  as  there  and  independently.  The  scale  was  in  min- 
iature yet  the  results  were  substantial  and  far-reaching  as  they 
involved  the  destiny  of  the  whole  Coast  and  made  us  a  truly  con- 
tinental nation  facing  both  oceans. 

These  sources  made  accessible  to  the  schools  of  the  states  of 
the  Pacific  Northwest  will  constitute  a  wealth  of  resources  for 
historical  parallels  between  the  development  of  the  east  and  the 
far  west.  The  possibilities  of  historical  instruction  in  American 
history  in  these  schools  will  thus  be  revolutionized. 

SPECIAL: — 

This  edition  of  this  journal  is  not  in  popular  form;  it  is  pri- 
marily intended  for  the  historical  student.  The  original  copy  is 
followed  with  verbal  nnd  literal  exactness.  The  editor  is  under 
obligations  to  Mr.  J.  M.  Crawford  of  Dayton,  Yamhill  county, 
Oregon,  and  Mrs.  E.  Stevens  of  Oregon  City,  Oregon,  for  the  use 
of  the  original  copy  and  for  permission  to  contribute  it  to  the 
searchers  for  original  and  indubitable  historical  evidence.  The 
genuine  historical  student  will  have  the  tenderest  appreciation 
of  the  adverse  circumstances  under  which  this  record  was  made 
and  be  profoundly  grateful  that  it  was  allowed  to  pass  out  of  the 
family  circle  in  this  form  for  his  use. 


BIOGRAPHICAL  NOTE. 


Crawford,  the  author  of  this  journal,  was  a  native 
of  central  New  York.  On  reaching  the  years  of  manhood  he  nat- 
urally as  A  representative  American  and  as  a  young  man  of  ener- 
uv  ami  ability,  hut  without  capital,  was  casting  about  for  a  field 
of  larger  opportunities  than  his  home  community  afforded. 

Mr.  Crawford's  family  knew  well  Dr.  Elijah  White  who  came 
to  Oregon  first  in  1837.  In  the  spring  of  1842  Dr.  White 
was  back  in  New  York  arranging  to  return  to  Oregon  as  a  sub- 
Indian  agent.  Mr.  Crawford  resolved  to  accompany  him.  His 
diary  is  the  only  journal  record  of  the  trip  of  this  first  consider- 
able band  of  pioneers  to  cross  the  plains. 

Mr.  <  'rawford  reached  Oregon  when  he  was  twenty-three  years 
of  age.  He  married  Miss  Adeline  Brown  who  had  come  to  Ore- 
ir<>n  in  the  same  party  with  him.  He  taught  the  Methodist  Mis- 
sion school  one  year  and  then  for  several  years  was  mainly  en- 
gaged in  hauling  goods  around  the  Willamette  Falls  with  an  ox 
In  1855  he  moved  to  a  farm  in  Yamhill  county  which  he 
made  his  home  while  not  engaged  in  public  life. 

He  was  a  member  of  the  Legislature  of  the   Provisional    Gov- 
ernment of  Oregon  from  1847  to  1849.     In  1860   he   was   elected 
t«>  the  State  Legislature.     He  seemed  to  have  been  held  in    high 
estimation  by  both  U.  S.  Senators  from  Oregon,  Baker  and   Nes- 
nrilli,  as  he  was  called    to   Washington   to   receive   instructions 
pertaining  to  taking  charge  of   the   emigration   escort   to   make 
trips  across  the  plains.     He  conducted  the  expeditions  of  1861,  '62 
and  '63.     He  was  practically  in  control  of  the  first  and,  with  rank 
!•  tain  in  the  army,   had   command   of   the   two   succeeding. 
He  was  successful  in  shielding  these  emigrants  from   the   outra- 
ges that  those  of  preceding  years  had  been  suffering,  as  well  as  in 
ling  a  surplus   into   the   treasury  at  the   end   of  each  year. 
In  1864  Mr.  Crawford  was  appointed  collector  of  internal  revenue 
for   Oregon.      His    duties    in    this^ifrvTrtved  at   once    the   sub- 
jecting of  the  people  to  an  unaccustomed  form    of   taxation   and 
•;i;  in  order  of  a  new  system  for   raising   revenue.       The 
difficulties   of     a    trying     position     were     much    enhanced     by 
th«-  di-tanee  from  the  source,  of  instructions.      He    administered 
In  ties  of  this  office  five  years.     From   1871   to   1875   he   was 
appraiser  of  customs  at  Portland.     He  lived  the  life  of  an    active 
•  i  in. in  that  time  on  until  his   death  in    1891    and   during 
thi-  I  .  '1  first  gained  a  competency. 

-nian,  of  Doc.  27, 1891,  in   commenting  on 

hi-  life  says,  "he  wa-  known  to  every  person  in  Oregon  during  many 

>ered  latterly  by  all  who   retained   recollections 

Medorem   Crawford  was  a  man  to   fix 

the  imprr^  «»f  his  imlh  idnality  and  character  upon  any  commn- 
*      *      *     &•  a  pioneer  he  was  among   the  most  intelli- 
••  'tie.  :ind  as  a  State-builder,  he   bore  a 
• 


JOURNAL 


March  17,  1842,  Thursday-Left  Havana  10  o'clock  A.  M. 
Left  Salubria  J  past  12  o'clock  on  hoard  Steam  Boat  Chemung 
for  Geneva,  landed  near  5  o'clock  P.  M.  put  up  at  the  Washing- 
ton Temperance  house.  Left  for  Rochester  at  £  past  11,  E.  ar- 
rived at  },  past  4  in  M.,  distance  f>()  miles,  put  up  at  the  Eagle 
very  much  fatigued  having  had  no  rest  last  night.  Left  for  Buf- 
falo i  past  8  M.,  arrd.  |  past  9  E.,  traviled  hy  Rail  road  &  Stage. 

Saturday,  March  19,  find  ourselves  very  sore  &  much  fatigued. 
Luke  full  of  ice  no  chance  to  get  away  to  day.  Steam  Boat  Gen. 
Scot  leaves  a  port  about  12  miles  down  the  Lake  hut  we  think  it 
not  advisable  to  go  to  it  without  a  certainty  of  getting  a  passage. 

The  weather  lias  been  verry  tine  since  we  started,  roads  very 
bad  from  Batavia  to  this  place,  distance  39  miles. 

Sunday  March  20,  no  prospect  of  getting  away  from  this  pi. 
uncertain  with  regard  to  the  best  rout.  Sunday  forenoon,  at- 
tended church,  in  the  evening  heard  a  lecture  from  Doct.  White 
on  the  Oregon  subject. 

Monday  21,  heavy  east  &  north-east  wind  and  considerable 
snow,  cold  windy  stormy  night. 

Tuesday  22d,  morning  stormy,  north-east  wind,  2  or  3  inch, 
snow,  very  unpleasant  indeed.  Left  Buffalo  at  11  o'clock  in  the 
morning  in  a  lumber  waggon  on  our  way  to  the  Steam  Boat.  Ar- 
rived at  Cattaragus  Creek  ^  past  10  evening,  roads  in  a  most  hor- 
rible condition  distance  from  Buffalo  30  miles.  Left  for  Erie 
on  board  Steam  Boat  Erie  at  J.past  10  o'clock. 

Wednesday  23d',  morning,  arrived  after  a  very  pleasant  ride  at 
7  o'clock  evening,  put  up  at  the  American  Hotel  in  Erie  good 
accommodations. 

Erie  is  a  very  pleasat  and  interesting  place,  has  a  fine  harbor,  is 
well  laid  out  and  has  a  public  square  and  most  splendid  buildings. 
Left  Erie  for  Pittsburgh  Thursday,  24th,  morning  f  past  11 
o'clock.  Friday  morning  7  o'clock  stoped  to  break  fast  at  George- 
town 52  miles  from  Erie.  Traviled  the  last  15  miles  in  a  covered 
waggon,  roads  quite  bad.  Called  at  Mercer  a,  pleasant  village  66 
miles  south  of  Erie,  wether  cloudy  &  freqent  showers'but  warm. 
Saturday  26,  morning,  stoped  for  breakfast  12  miles  from  Pitts- 
burgh, rode  all  night  in  a  covered  waggon,  bad  roads,  arrived  at 
Pittsburgh  on  Saturday  1  o'clock  P.  M.,  almost  tiered  to  death 
having  had  no  rest  since  we  left  Erie.  Do  not  like  the  looks  of 
Pittsburgh  at  all.  The  city  is  badly  laid  out,  streets  are  narrow 
:ui<l  dirty  and  the  houses  all  smoked  with  coal.  Left  Pittsburgh 
<»n  board  S.  B.  West-point  for  Cincinnati  at  \  past  7  evening. 


JOURNAL. 


Waked  up  in  the  morning  some  rested  found  ourselves  in 
Virginia.  Called  at  Wheeling  3  hours  on  Sunday  morning, 
March  27.  Wheeling  has  the  appearance  of  a  business  place  but 
like  Pittsburgh  its  buildings  are  covered  with  the  smoke  of  Pit 
coal.  Called  at  Marietta  a  few  minutes;  verry  pretty  place. 
Monday  28  March,  nothing  of  particular  interest  has  occurred 
today.  The  weather  is  remarkable  fine,  the  forest  trees  along 
the  river  are  covered  with  green  leaves  and  the  peach  trees  all  in 
blossom.  Passed  the  state  line  between  Virginia  &  Kentucky 
aliout  noon  verry  little  of  the  country  to  be  seen  from  the  river  a 
range  of  hills  bordering  on  each  side  only  an  occasional  farm  on 
either  side  between  the  river  and  the  hill.1  Passed  several  rafts 
today  and  met  steamboats.  Landed  and  reed.  2  passengers  at 
Portsmouth  one  of  the  most  splendid  villages  I  ever  saw  at  the 
termination  of  the  Ohio  Canal. 

Arrived  at  Cincinnati  about  midnight  Left  the  boat  at  6* 
o'clock  on  Tuesday  morning.  Took  breakfast  nt  a  tavern,  went 
about  the  city,  found  Col.  John  White,  had  a  verry  polite  invita- 
tion to  stop  at  his  house  while  we  stayed  in  the  City  accepted 
the  invitation  &  stayed  to  dinner  after  dinner  Col.  went  round  the 
City  and  introduced  us  to  some  of  the  first  men  of  the  City.  We 
were  very  kindly  treated  indeed  &  had  many  warm  invitations 
to  call  and  stay  the  evening.  March  28  the  weather  is  uncom- 
fortable warm. 

Saturday  April  2,  Left  Cincinnati  for  St.  Louis  £  past  3 
o'clock  P.  M.  about  5  o'clock  we  had  a  fair  view  of  Gen.  Wm.  H. 
Harrison's  residence  and  tomb  the  scene  was  a  most  beautiful 
one,  the  house  in  which  he  lived  is  verry  pleasantly  situated  some 
30  rods  from  the  river,  it  is  surrounded  with  green  trees  &c. 
The  tomb  is  on  the  top  of  a  beautiful  knoll  surrounded  by  a 
very  handsome  fence  containing  probably  about  6  or  8  acres. 
The  country  along  the  river  particularly  on  the  Ohio  side  is  a 
beautiful  and  apparently  level  &  rich  section. 

Spent  the  Sabbath  in  Louisville,  Kentucky.  Took  our  horses 
ashore  and  rode  back  in  the  country  &  was  verry  much  pleased 
with  the  fine  dwellings,  gardens,  &  farms  &c.  Attended  the 
Presbyterian  Church  in  the  afternoon  &  the  Methodist  in  the 
evening — both  were  interesting. 

Monday  morning  quite  unwell  taken  with  a  dinerea  eat  no 
breakfast  &  very  little  dinner,  took  some  B^fifclndy  <fe  sugar  and 
IOOO  felt  better.  Left  Louisville  near  5  o'clock  F*.  M.  passed  over 
the  fulls  in  safty  stopt  at  New  Albany  Indiana  small  but  pleas- 
ant place.  Tuesday  called  at  several  small  places  along  the  river 
tli"  most  delightful  weather  I  ever  saw. 

Wednesday  April  6,  rainy  &  cloudy  passed  Cnro  at  mouth  of 
the  Ohio  entered  the  Mississippi  at  7  o'clock  A.  M.  Cairo  is  a 
miserable  looking  place,  said  to  be  unhealthy. 

A  severe  thunder  storm  after  night  Boat  obliged  to  stop  on 
account  of  dnrknosH,  started  some  time  before  morning,  ran  on  a 
snag  and  injured  the  wheel  some,  soon  repd.  &  started  again 
Thursday  fine  morning  after  the  storm — a  verry  warm  sun. 


JOURNAL. 


Arrived  at  St.  Louis  ^  past  4  P.  M.  putup  at  the  St.  Louis 
Exchange.  Friday  &  Ssturday  spent  my  time  riding  about  the 
city  &  visiting  my  fellow  passengers  on  board  the  Neptune 
especially  Misses  Wells  &  Marshall. 

Sunday  April  10,  verry  hot  indeed  rode  out  to  the  Prairie  Ho- 
tel parted  with  Mr.  Beebe  of  New  York  who  I  first  met  at  Pitts- 
burgh. 

Monday  spent  this  day  in  a  most  agreeable  manner  with  Mr. 
Suhlett  who  has  spent  several  years  in  the  mountains. 

Spent  ten  days  here  in  St.  Louis  verry  agreeably  up  to  Mon- 
day, April  18.  Esqr.  Crocker,  Alex.  &  John  started  for  Independ- 
ence by  land  taking  6  mules  &  3  horses.  Reed  a  letter  this 
morning  from  Father  &  Sister.  After  having  spent  2  weeks  in 
St.  Louis  and  having  formed  several  verry  agreeable  acquaintan- 
ces we  left  Thursday  21  April  at  8  o'clock  evening  for  Independ- 
ence on  S.  B.  Rowcna.  Friday  extremely  hot.  Called  at  Jeffer- 
son City?  o'clock  evening. 

April  24,  Sunday  morning  10  o'clock  cannot  get  over  the  bar. 
Heavy  rain  in  the  evening.  Monday  morning  9  o'clock  got  over  the 
bar;  a  verry  cold  wind.  Called  at  Lexington  2  hours  at  noon  8 
couple  of  Gentlemen  and  Ladies  &  band  of  music  came  on  bord 
for  a  pleasure  party.  Spent  the  evening  very  pleasantly  in  con- 
versation and  dancing  with  the  Ladies.  Tuesday  morning  very 
fine  weather.  Called  at  Liberty  landing  4  hours  visited  the  Ar- 
senal at  Liberty  village  3  miles  from  the  river.  16  couple  of  Gent 
and  Ladies  came  on  board.  Left  the  S.  boat  at  2  o'clock  arr'd  at 
Independence  at  3  found  the  Boys  had  arrived  the  night  before. 
On  Friday  April  29,  we  pitched  our  tent  and  turned  our  animals 
out  in  the  Prairie  about  6  miles  from  Independence  we  got  our 
supper  and  slept  in  the  tent.  Saturday  we  got  out  all  our  things 
from  the  village.  Sunday  May  first  we  spent  all  this  day  in  the 
camp. 

May  2d  a  meeting  of  all  who  are  hound  to  Oregon  was  called 
to  decide  whether  to  wait  for  a  company  from  Platt;  Decided  to 
wait  12  day*.  4th  Left  camp  10  o'clock  M.  stoped  at  2  o'clock 
to  dinner.  Started  at  4  o'clock,  E.  stoped  at  6  o'clock  pitched 
our  tent  in  a  fine  spot  traveed  12  miles  today,  had  a  heavy  frost 
last  night  ruined  most  of  the  corn  and  fruit  in  this  country. 

6.  Rode  to  Independence  from  camp  18  M.  7,  Returned,  3 
more  waggons  came  to  camp.  May  8,  Sunday  went  to  Shawnee 
meeting,  returned  by  way  of  Mission.  10  Uncommon  dry  an 
hot,  no  rain  since  we  came  to  camp.  12,  went  to  Independence,  a 
fine  shower.  14,  Doctor  came  to  camp  with  36  Cattle.  16  Left 
camp  at  1  o'clock  E.  drove  15  mi.  and  camped  at  7  o'c.  E.  on 
the  Santafe  rout,  found  water  pleanty,  wood  &  pasture  scarce. 

In  our  company  were  16  waggons  &  105  persons  including 
children  &  51  men  over  18  years  of  age.  17.  Started  at  9  o'c. 
M.  detained  £  hour  by  losing  the  trail.  Left  the  Santa  Fee 
trail  at  2  o'c  and  camped  at  ^  past  3  evening,  weather  verry  warm. 
Traviled  about  12  miles.  1  more  wagon  and  3  men  came  on. 
18.  A  violent  rain  this  morning  much  excitement  in  camp 


8  JOURNAL. 


about  Dogs:  22  dogs  shot,  stoped  mining  9  o'c. 

May  18,  Started  at  1  o'clock  E.  without  a  track  endeavoring 
to  rind  the  right  trail.  Camped  on  the  right  trail  at  7  o'c.  E. 
TraviU'diO  miles. 

19.  'A  severe  rain   this  morning;  laid  out  and  got  verry  wet. 
Started  at  i  past  9  M.  detained  by   crossing  2  creeks   stoped  at  2 
E.  traviled  5  miles. 

20.  Verry  heavy  rain  last  night  &  cloudy  this  morning.  Moved 
camp  about  one  mile.     All    gone    ahead    except   3   wagons    who 
are  detained  with  a  sick  child. 

21.  Another  rainy  nfght    &    cloudy   cold    &    uncomfortable 
morning.     Mrs.  Lancaster's  only  child  a  daughter  16  months  old 
died  10  o'clock  M  the  Doctor  called  the   disease   symptomatick 
fever  accompanied  with  worms.     Continues  to    rain   moderately. 
May  21.     After  burying  the  child  we  started  and  drove   6   miles. 

22d  Sunday  started  at  7  o'clock  M.  and  drove  25  miles  over  a 
beautiful  country;  camped  in  good  season.  23d  Some  rain  last 
night  &  cloudy  cool  morning.  Started  at  9  o'clock  M.  drove  to 
the  Kansas  river  and  crossed  with  safty,  Distance  10  miles.  24. 
Stoped  today  to  repair  waggons. 

25.  Started  at  4  o'clock  E.  drove  6  miles  camped  at  7  o'clock 
E.  part  of  the  company  still  ahead.  26.  Started  at  7 o'clock  M. 
considerable  rain,  overtook  company  at  2  o'clock,  took  dinner 
and  all  started  together.  Camped  on  Vermillion  Creek  at  7 
o'clock  E.  traviled  18  miles. 

May  27.  Mrs.  Lancaster  verry  sick  &  unable  totravil.  Part  of 
the  company  unwilling  to  wait  &  went  on,  much  dissatisfaction 
in  the  camp.  Capt.  White  rode  on  and  found  the  company 
about  8  miles  ahead  they  agreed  to  wait  untill  Sunday  morning 
for  Mr.  Lancaster.  The  weather  is  verry  fine  and  the  country 
around  delightful. 

28.  Rainv  morning,  Mrs.  Lancaster  some  better.     Started  at 
^  past  9  oc.  M.  Cleared  off  warm,  arrived  at  camp  J  p.   4   o'clock 
E.  traviled  8  miles,  weather  verry  hot. 

29.  Sunday  Mrs.  Lancaster  is  verry  low,  much  dissatisfaction 
in  the  camp,  some  want  to  go   on    and    some    want    to  stay.      3 
wagons  went  on  2  miles,  a  very  warm  day.  30  All  the  wagon?  ex- 
cept Mr.  Lancaster  started  at  |  past  6  o'clock  M.  cool  wind.  30th 
May  Mr.  Lancaster  concluded  to  take  his  wife  back.    Capt.  White 
and  others  accompany  him  to  the  K.  river.     Stoped  to  dinnor  H 
hours.     Camped  at  \  past  6  o'clock    E.    traviled   20   miles.     31* 
Started  at  \  past  5  oc.  M.       Stoped  2^  hours  for  dinner,  camped 
on  l?lm>  Kivrr  at  4  o'clock  E.  traviled   15    miles;    most   splendid 
ppring  water  there,  met  4  waggons  from  the  Mountains,  3  o'clock. 

.Inn.  Ut  Started  at  A  5  M.  commenced  raining  at  6  stoped  3 
hour-,  not  .in  after  the  rain  ceased.  Stoped  2  hours  for  dinner. 
('.in. ).<•<!  .-it  .".  o'clock  E.  travilod  10  miles.  Doct.  White  overtook 
us  at  4  o'clock  E. 

•-M      Tn-riM-udon-  rain    &    wind    last    night.       Commenced 
!  last  night.     Cold  wind  &  disagreeable    morning. 
t.-.l  at  1  ..viork  K.  ('an-ped  at  7.   E.  traviled  8  miles. 


JOURNAL. 


June  3d  The  company  started  at  5  oclock  M.  &  left  myself 
with  3  others  to  wait  for  Mr.  Burns  and  others  who  were  detained 
by  Mr.  Lancaster. 

4.  Started  at  6  o'clock  M.  intending  to  go  hack  to  the  Blue 
River  &  there  stay  for  Mr,  Burns.  Met  Mr.  Burns  &  his  compa- 
ny together  with  O'Fallen  2  miles  hack,  turned  &  came  on  with 
them.  Stoped  2  hours  for  dinner.  Camped  at  6  o'clock,  E.  traviled 
22  miles.  Cold  wind.  5.  Sunday,  Started  at  6  o'clock  M.  Stoped 
1^  hours  for  dinner,  overtook  the  company.  Camped  on  the 
Blue  at  J  past  4  o'clock  E.  traviled  21  miles. 

0.  All  started  together  at  7  o'clock  M.  commenced  raining 
at  9,  camped  at  10,  rain  ceased,  took  dinner  and  started  at  1 
o'clock.  Camped  at  6  o'clock  E.  traviled  16  miles  rainy  night. 
7.  June,  cold,  damp,  &  disagreeable  morning  rained  untill  10  o'clock 
M.  Started  at  J  past  1  o'clock,  camped  at  |  past  6  o'clock  E. 
traviled  10  miles. 

8.  Cloudy  morning    started  at  ^  past  7  o'clock.     Stoped   for 
dinner  at  £  p.  11:  started  at  ^  p.  2.     Camped  at  7   o'clock  E.  on 
the  head  waters  of  the  Blue  R.  which  we  have  been  following   up 
for  the  last  3  days,  good  water  &  wood,  traviled  16  miles. 

9.  Left  Blue  R.  at  6  o'clock  M.    Crossed  the  Pawnee  Trail  at 
8  o'clock.     Stoped  at  |  p.  12  for  dinner    without  wood   or   water 
except  what  we  carried    with  us.     Started  at  2  o'clock  &  traviled 
through  a  ridge  of  country  destitute  of  wood  &  water.      Camped 
at  7  o'clock  E.  on  the  Platte  R.  traviled  25  miles. 

June  10.  Started  at  8  o'clock  M.  &  followed  up  the  Platte  R. 
Stoped  for  dinner  at£  past  12,  started  at  2.  Camped  at  5  o'clock 
E.  traviled  12  miles. 

J.  11.  Difficulty  between  Doct.  White  &  John  Force. 
Started  at  8  o'clock  M.  stoped  for  dinner  2  hours,  camped  at  5^ 
o'clock  E.  traviled  10  miles.  12.  Sunday,  Started  at  7  o'clock 
M.  Stoped  at  12,  found  a  band  of  Buffalo  near  the  camp  nearly 
100  killed  3  very  good  Bulls.  Started  at  3,  saw  many  Buffalo. 
Camped  at  6  o'clock  E.  traviled  14  miles.  Buffalo  came  close 
around  the  camp  killed  6. 

13.  Large  herds  of  Buffalo  in  plain  sight  around  the  camp. 
Started  in  good  season.  Saw  thousands  of  Buffalo  traviled  15 
miles,  little  feed  for  horses. 

June  14.  Our  animals  alarmed  last  night  by  the  Buffalo  ap- 
proaching the  camp.  2  oxen  shot  by  the  Guard  through  mistake 
but  neither  of  them  killed.  Started  at  8  o'clock  M.  Commen- 
ced raining  at  i  p.  11.  Stoped  for  dinner  at  12.  Started  at  \  p. 
2.  Camped  18  miles. 

15.  Started  at  7  o'clock  M.     Saw  thousands  of  Buffalo   near 
the  trail  stopped  for  dinner  at  J  p.  11,  good  wood  and  pasture,  but 
poor  water,  verry  warm  day. 

The  month  for  which  Capt.  White  was  elected  being  up  the 
company  elected  Mr.  Hastings  by  a  majority  of  12  over  Mr. 
Meek.  Concluded  not  to  move  camp  today,  traviled  9  miles. 

16.  Remain  in  camp  today  to  wash  our  clothes. 

June  16.     More  difficulty  and  misunderstanding  in  the   com- 


ro  JOURNAL. 


pany.     Doct.  White  with  a  few  others  concluded  to  leave. 

17.  Rain  this  morning.  The  majority  of  the  company  start- 
ed at  8  o'clock  under  Capt.  Hastings.  Two  waggons  and  13  men 
remained  Capt.  Fnllen.  Started  at  11  o'clock  passed  the  other  par- 
ty and  camped  at  6  o'clock.  They  passed  us  again  and  camped 
3  miles  ahead,  we  traviled  14  miles,  quite  cold. 

lx  Started  at  7  o'clock.  Cold  wind  &  extremely  uncomfort- 
able. Commenced  to  rain  at  10  o'clock  stopcd.  Started  at  2 
camped  at  7  on  the  South  fork  of  Platte  traviled  18  miles.  Capt. 
II.  2  miles  ahead.  For  2  days  we  have  seen  no  Buffalo.  Capt. 
Fallen  brought  us  some  meat. 

Juno  19.  Sunday,  Started  at  7,  stopped  for  dinner  2^  hours 
within  1  mile  of  Capt.  Hastings.  Camped  on  the  Platte  within 
\  mile  of  the  other  company  at  6,  traviled  20  miles. 

20.  Capt.  Hastings  &  comp.  crossed  over  the  river  &   we  fol- 
lowed immediately. 

The  South  Fork  where  we  crossed  is  ^  mile  wide  but  not  deep 
the  bottom  is  quick  sand.  Left  the  South  Fork  and  took  X.  \V. 
[direction]  for  the  N.  Fork.  The  other  company  went  south  of  us. 
Camped  on  the  North  Fork.  The  other  company  2  miles  behind, 
traviled  15  M. 

21.  Started  early  and  kept  up   the  River   good   road   in  the 
forenoon.     Stopped  3  hours  for  dinner,  several  hunters   from  the 
other  company  took  dinner  with  us,  some  hills  to  cross    Camped 
early  traviled  20  miles. 

22.  Started  early,  good  road.     3  men  left  the  other   Com.  for 
Fort  Laromie  took  dinner  with  us. 

22.  Capt.  Fallen  &  Esq.  Crocker  went   on    to  Fort  L.   verry 
warm.     Camped  early  traviled  20  miles.     Mosketoes  pleanty. 

23.  Started  early,  kept  along  the    river,    water  good.      Saw 
some  boatmen  from  the  Fort  stoppod  3  hours  for  dinner.  Camped 
early  traviled  16  miles. 

24.  Started  early  drove  verry  fast  stopped   for  dinner  nearly 
oposite    the  Chimney  a  very    remarkable    mound  rising    like  a 
pyramid  some  100  feet  and  then  a  perpendicular   column    stand- 
ing on  the  top  probably  200  feet  hign.     Saw  a  Buffalo   crossing 
the  River,  Chained  him  back  to  the  hills.     The   most  remarkable 
thing  I  have  seen  is  the  deception  in    distances.     Bluffs   which 
appear  within  1  mile  are  often  5  miles  from   us.      Camped   early 
traviled  20  mil*-. 

.June  25.     Started  7.     Cattle's  feet   verry   sore   traviled  slow. 

bottom  \\  to  .">  miles  wide,  stopped  for  dinner  4  hours,  verry 

hot.  left  the  River   traviled  12  miles.     Camped  without  water  or 

\\oi.d  in  :i  valley  bordered  on  each  side  by  high  Bluffs  presenting 

the  most  romantie  <renery  I  ever  saw. 

'-!'».     Bui  rted  early  without   breakfast  eame    to   good 

lock. '  Camped  on  the  side  of  a  hill    in    a 

•  .  Started  at  1  o'clock  saw  the  other  company  coming  on, 
drove  to  II-'-.  < 'P. 'k  camped  traviled  14  miles.  Hoivos  verry 
much  friirlitene.l  about  midnight  nearly  all  broke  lose. 

27.  at  I  nYl.M-k    without   breakfast  stopped  on   the 


JOURNAL. 


River  at  10J  o'clock.     Started  at  1  o'clock  verry  sultry  day.    Cat- 
tle verry  near  giving  out.     Camped  at  sundown,  traviled  18  miles. 

28.  Started  late  drove  to  the  Forts  by  noon,  traviled  10  miles. 
Found  2  Forts  with  several  men  at  each  whose  business  it   is   to 
trade  with  the  Indians.     Capt.  H.came  up,  5  o'clock. 

29.  Preparing  carts  &  disposing  of  our  cattle  in  order  to   ex- 
pedite our  journey. 

30.  Verry  buisy  preparing  to  start  tomorrow.     July  1.     Diffi- 
culty between  Doct.  White  and  Capt.  Fallen.     Fallen  refused   to 
m>  with  us.     Remained  here  all  day.     2d  joined  the   other   com- 
pany under  Capt.  Hastings.     Started  at  9  o'clock  met  a  company 
from  the  mountains  near  the  Fort.     Camped  at  five,  good    wood 
and  water  poor  grass,  traviled  12  miles  through  a  hilly   and   bar- 
ren country. 

July  3.  Sunday  Entered  what  is  called  the  Black  Hills. 
Traviled  15  miles  over  bad  road  without  seeing  water.  Mr.  Fitch 
Patrick  employed  as  guide  came  to  camp. 

4th.  Waggon  to  repair.  Wrote  a  few  lines  to  my  Parents. 
Started  at  noon  had  a  verry  rough  road.  Came  to  water  6^ 
o'clock,  traviled  11  miles.  Cart  broke  down  2  miles  from  camp. 

5.  Repaired  the  cart.     Started  at  noon  found  good    water   at 
three  o'clock,  had  some  heavy  hills  to  rise.      Buffalo  very   scarce. 
Camped  early  good  wood,  water  and  grass,  traviled  9  miles. 

6.  Started  at  six  drove  on  at  a  good  pace  until  noon  found  a 
first  rate  camping  place.     Concluded   to   remain   here    today    as 
there  was  no  good  chance  ahead,  traviled  12  miles. 

July  7.  Started  early  traveled  over  a  rough  mountainous  & 
barren  country  found  no  good  camping  place  until  late  afternoon 
traviled  16  miles,  found  a  fine  band  of  Buffalo  cows. 

8.  Started  at  8  o'clock  had  a  verry  hilly  road  stopped  for  din- 
ner at  12^  o'clock  on  creek  started  at  4  camped    on    the    Platte, 
good  wood  and  water  but  short  grass,  travlied  15  miles. 

9.  Started  at  7  o'clock  stopped  at  9^  on  Deer  Creek.     Second 
trial  of  Mr.  Moss  for  not  standing  guard.     Jury  could  not   agree. 
Started  at  2  camped   at  7,  traviled  15  miles.     Saw   several  bands 
of  line  Buffalo  cows  our  hunter  killed  one  I  think  decidedly   the 
best  meat  I  ever  eat. 

10.  Sunday  Started  at  7  verry  heavy  west  wind  yesterday  &  to- 
day. 

July  10.     Sunday,  Crossed  over  the  Platte  &  camped  traviled 

11  miles      11.     Started  at  8,  left  the  Platte  &  Black  Hills  traviled 

12  miles  over  hilly  roads  &  camped  in  sight  of  the  Red  Butes  good 
water  and  grass  but  no  wood.     Cool  wind. 

12.  Started  in  good  season  saw  an  abundance  of  Buffalo  crossed 
some  verry  Rocky  Hills  said  to  be  the  commencement  of  the  Moun- 
tains.    Stopped  for  dinner  2  hours.     Camped  in  a  little  valley  sur- 
rounded with  bushes  grass  good  &  first  rate  water  and  wood,  trav- 
iled 16  miles. 

13.  Verry  cold,  water  in  a  pail  froze  ice  like  thick  window  glass. 
Started  early  rai/ed  a  long  hill  detained  by  wagons  breaking  down 
1  hour. 


12  JOURNAL. 


July  13.  Stopped  for  late  dinner  on  verry  warm  road  levol  and 
sandy  not  a  particle  of  grass,  passed  bedds  of  white  substance  par- 
taking of  thenatureof  salt  and  mngnetia  &c.  Camped  at  sunset 
on  Sweet  Water,  traviled  20  m.  Baily  shot  while  walking  through 
camp  by  accidental  discharge  of  a  gun  from  a  waggon,  he  lived 
about  one  hour. 

14.  Buried  Baily  near  Independence  Rock  J  mile  from  camp. 
My  feelings  on  this  occasion  can  hardly  be  described.  A  young 
man  in  the  vigor  of  youth  and  health  taken  from  our  company 
wraped  in  a  Buffalo  Robe  &  and  buried  in  this  dismal  Prairie. 
What  sad  tidings  for  his  Parents  &  friends  who  like  my  own  are 
far  from  here.  Went  out  hunting  Buffalo. 

July  15.  Layed  about  15  miles  from  camp  last  night  in  com- 
pany with  three  others.  Killed  a  Bull  and  as  we  had  eaten  noth- 
ing since  we  left  camp  we  soon  built  a  fire  and  roasted  some  meat, 
killed  a  cow  about  11  o'clock,  got  into  camp  towards  night  found 
all  the  rest  of  the  company  had  more  meat  than  us.  Today  Capt. 
Hastings  month  being  up  himself  and  Lieu  Lovejoy  were  re-elect- 
ed. 16  Concluded  to  move  camp  nearer  to  the  Buffalo.  Started 
at  8  o'clock  followed  up  the  Sweet  Water  at  the  foot  of  a  tremen- 
dous mountain  composed  of  solid  rock.  Sweet  water  passes 
through  a  gap  in  this  mountain,  great  curiosity. 

July  16.  Camped  on  Sweet  water  at  3  o'clock.  Went  with  2 
others  about  linile  from  camp  and  ascended  the  mountain  after 
having  viewed  the  rock  we  decended  about  half  way  when  we  dis- 
covered a  party  of  200  Indians  approaching  camp. 

Made  all  possible  haste  to  camp.  Indians  met  us  but  let  us 
pass.  Found  they  had  taken  our  Capt.  &  Lieu,  prisoners  at  the 
Independence  Rock  where  they  had  been  taking  observations  and 
brought  them  to  carr.p.  Showed  no  hostility.  Presented  them 
with  tobaco.  Camped  near  us,  traviled  12  miles.  17.  Sunday 
After  calling  on  us  &  receiving  some  ammunition  they  left  &  trav- 
iled up  the  River.  We  stay  to  make  meat.  Verry  warm.  Several 
men  gone  hunting.  Verry  difficult  to  get  meat. 

Mr.  Bennitt's  Daughter  slightly  wounded  by  an  accidental  dis- 
charge of  a  gun. 

Monday  July  18.  We  reluctantly  remained  here  today.  Sev- 
eral gone  hunting  slight  shower  of  rain.  Considerable  of  moat 
l>r< night  in  today. 

19.  Started  at  7£  o'clock  followed  up  the  Sweet  W«tcr,  tre- 
mendous Rocky  Mountains  on  each  side.  Camped  at  12J  o'clock, 
good  grass,  water  and  wood,  traviled  7  miles. 

•Jo.  Stay  here  today  to  dry  what  meat  we  have  and  get  more. 
Ban  ten  driven  into  camp  by  the  Indians  who  are  scattered  in 
-mall  par  ties  all  a  round  us.  Indians  take  2  horses  from  Binnit's 
KM1  A  \Voston.  They  came  to  cam])  verry  much  frightened. 
Capt.  &  several  others  went  out  to  see  if  they  had  any  of  our  men 
several  of  whom  were  out  yet.  All  came  in  safe.  False  alarm  in 
the  night. 

Thursday.  .Inly  *J1.  Stay  hero  all  this  day.'  Brown  lost  a  horse 
leg  broke  by  a  kick.  Indians  came  hack  before  noon  a  few  came 


JOURNAL.  13 


near  camp  &  told  many  different  stories.  We  observed  they  had 
more  horses  than  when  they  went  up.  280  were  counted  in  their 
Party.  They  passed  quietly  by  and  said  they  were  going  home. 
Extremely  warm. 

22.  Started  at  7,  traviled  on  at  a  good  pace  until  10  met  a  party 
of  Shian  Indians.  Camped  within  two  miles  of  their  Village, 
about  noon  the  Chiefs  together  with  some  hundreds  of  others 
came  to  camp.  We  made  them  presents  of  ammunition,  tobaco 
<fec.  and  smoked  with  them.  Started  after  dinner  passed  their 
village  which  consisted  of  several  hundred  lodges. 

Friday  22d  July.  Several  Indians  accompanied  us  to  camp. 
Mr.  Fitch  Patrick  judged  they  were  in  the  village  of  Crows,  Shians, 
&  Sues  between  4  &  5000.  Many  of  our  Company  traded  horses 
with  them.  Camped  near  sun  set  on  Sweet  Water,  traviled  15m. 

23  Started  at  7^  o'clock,  bad  road.  Crossed  the  Sweet  Water 
a  number  of  times,  some  verry  narrow  passes  between  the  moun- 
tains. Camped  on  S.  W.  at  noon,  traviled  7  miles  a  small  party 
of  Indians  came  to  camp,  about  100  more  Indians  came  to  camp 
at  2  o'clock.  They  were  a  war  party  of  Sues  &  Shians  who  had 
been  to  fight  the  Snakes.  They  returned  as  usual  in  several  par- 
ties another  small  party  came  up  near  night.  A  few  came  to 
camp  to  smoke. 

Sunday  24.  Started  early  left  the  creek  &  traviled  over  a  hill 
of  sand  without  a  particle  of  grass  ground  covered  with  wild  sage. 
Saw  mountains  with  snowy  sides  far  to  the  N.  W.  struck  Sweet 
Water  about  noon  stoped  for  dinner  2^  hours  crossed  the  creek 
several  times  afternoon.  Camped  on  the  creek  good  wood  and 
grass  traviled  15  miles. 

25  Started  6^  o'clock  rose  a  long  hill  came  on  the  creek  & 
camped  at  11  for  dinner  drove  two  hours  afternoon  camped  on 
the  creek  much  the  best  grass  we  have  seen  since  we  left  the  Fort 
good  spring  water  &  pleanty  of  wood  traviled  12  miles.  Wild 
geese  for  several  days  have  been  frequently  seen  &  fish  are  caught 
from  Sweet  Water  creek. 

Tuesday  26,  July.  The  nights  arc  astonishingly  cold  &  the 
days  are  verry  warm.  Last  night  I  Iny  under  a  thick  Blanket  & 
Buffalo  Robe  with  my  clothes  on.  Started  early  traviled  over  a 
long  rocky  hill  camped  at  noon,  got  already  to  start  after  dinner 
and  a  waggon  broke  down  stay  here  tonight,  traviled  10  miles  had 
a  severe  cold  rain. 

27.  Started  early  stopped  a  short  time  for  dinner.  Camped 
near  sun  set  on  Sweet  Water,  traviled  16  miles. 

28.  Started  7  o'clock  left  Sweet  W^ater  crossed  the  dividing 
ridge.  Camped  at  10  o'clock  on  a  little  stream  running  westward, 
traviled  6  miles.  Left  the  cart  here,  one  waggon  left.  Snowy 
mountains  constantly  in  sight. 

Friday  29.  Started  7  o'clock  traviled  over  a  sandy  barren 
country  destitute  of  game  &  every  thing  but  wild  sage,  high 
mountains  north  of  us  apparently  20  or  30  miles  covered  with 
snow.  Camped  after  noon  on  Little  Sandy  Creek  which  empties 
in  Green  River  a  verry  pretty  stream  but  much  warmer  than  I  ex- 
pected traviled  14  miles. 


I4  JOURNAL. 


30.  Started  early  stopped  on   the   creek   for   dinner  2  hours. 
Camped  near  sun  set  on  Big  Sandy  Creek  traviled  20  miles. 

31.  Sunday.     Rainy  morning  Started  7.     Commenced  rain- 
ing verry  cold  &    unpleasant.     Considerable   decending   ground. 
Camped  on  the   creek  at  3  o'clock   traviled  15  miles.     Much  talk 
about  dividing  the  company  at  Green  River. 

August  1.  Monday  started  at  7.  Commenced  raining  soon  rain- 
ed moderately  crossed  Green  River  and  camped  11  o'clock  traviled 
6  miles.  Some  of  the  company  preparing  to  pack  from  here 
rainy  afternoon  and  evening.  2d.  Cold  wet  morning  some  mak- 
ing pack  saddles  aud  others  repairing  their  waggons  determ- 
ined to  take  them  through. 

3.  Capt.  Hastings  with  8  waggons  started  at  8  o'clock,  Meek 
Pilot.  The  best  wagons  were  taken  on  2  were  left  standing  the  rest 
destroyed  to  repair  others.  In  our  camp  there  is  27  men,  Mr. 
Fitchpatrick  Captain  and  Pilot.  Finished  making  packsaddles 
cashed  goods  and  preparing  to  start  tomorrow. 

Thursday  Aug.  4.  All  started  with  pack  animals  at  8  o'clock 
had  verry  little  trouble  on  the  way  arrived  at  Ham's  Fork  of 
Green  River  at  4^  o'clock.  Camped  good  grass  and  wood  traviled 
20  miles  in  a  different  direction  from  that  which  the  waggons 
took.  We  saw  high  mountains  covered  with  snow  to  the  south 
west. 

5.  Started  at  7,  saw  some  of  Capt.  H.  company  the  wnggons 
camped  2  miles  behind  us  last  night.  Said  they  had  to  leave  one 
waggon  the  first  day.  Stopped  early  for  dinner  cashed  liquor. 
Started  &  crossed  a  considerable  hill  cold  and  rainy  afternoon  got 
verry  wet,  rain  ceased  and  we  camped  5  o'clock  on  the  same  creek 
traviled  18  miles. 

Saturday  Aug.  6.  Started  early  traviled  6  hours  before  din- 
ner over  a  verry  rough  mountainous  country  in  some  places  we 
were  obliged  to  all  follow  one  path.  Camped  near  sunset  on  the 
same  creek  good  grass  little  wood,  Traviled  22  miles. 

7.  Started  in  good  season  followed  up  the  creek  some  time 
crossed  a  hill  to  the  north  commenced  raining  crossed  some  verry 
bad  water  courses.  Stopped  for  dinner  at  the  side  of  a  high  moun- 
tain rain  stopped  started  soon,  rain  and  hail.  Crossed  two  tre- 
mendous mountains  and  camped  on  Bear  River  near  sunset  trav- 
iled 25  miles.  Saw  a  verry  large  Indian  trail  nearly  fresh.  The 
river  runs  nearly  north  here. 

Monday  Aug.  8.  Started  as  usual  followed  down  the  River 
level  road  verry  high  mountain  on  each  side  of  the  River  Bottom 
which  is  bettor  soil  than  we  have  seen  for  some  time.  Stopped 
on  the  River  a  short  time  for  dinner.  Two  accidents  this  after- 
nniin  by  falling  from  horses  not  serious.  A  few  trout  caught  from 
the  river  Today.  Traviled  20  miles  and  camped  on  Tommaux 
Fork. 

9.  Start »M!  early  across  the  Fork  and  crossed  over  a  tremend- 
our  mountain  and  stopped  for  dinner  on  the  river,  had  level  road 
this  afternoon.  Camped  in  good  season  on  Tullock's  Fork  a 
running  t'nmi  tli<-  Mountains  into  the  River  traviled  18 


JOURNAL.  15 


miles. 

Wednesday  Aug.  10.  Saw  fresh  sines  of  Indians  started  early. 
Indians  soon  came  to  us.  They  were  Ponarchs  and  moving  in 
the  same  direction  with  us  many  of  them  traviled  with  us  until 
3  o'clock  when  we  struck  the  river  and  camped,  traviled  16  miles. 
Several  horses  were  procured  from  them  on  reasonable  terms  by 
our  company.  Their  whole  company  soon  came  up  and  camped 
near  us. 

11.  Some  trading  this  morning  started  at  8J  o'clock  left  the 
river  before  noon  saw  some  of  the  finest  springs  of  water  which 
form  a  large  creek.  Saw  the  soda  springs  and  Boiling  springs  the 
greatest  Natural  Curiosity  I  ever  saw.  Camped  near  soda  springs 
good  place  traviled  15  miles.  Some  Indians  came  to  camp. 

Friday  Aug.  12.  Went  to  see  the  Boiling  springs  again  this 
morning  the  hole  through  which  the  water  spouts  is  about  1  foot 
in  diameter  the  water  which  kept  a  continual  Boiling  rises  fre- 
quently to  the  hight  of  3  feet.  It  is  said  at  times  to  rise  much 
higher.  It  is  Blood  warm  and  has  a  sulphur  and  mineral  taste 
there  appears  to  be  a  species  of  Rock  constantly  forming  around 
the  hole  which  is  already  considerably  elevated.  There  is  a  smaller 
hole  near  which  appears  to  serve  sis  a  vent  through  which  the  air 
is  constantly  circulating.  Started  7,  a  few  Indians  in  camp  2  of 
our  company  started  ahead  for  Fort  Hall.  Saw  a  singular  spring 
partaking  considerably  of  the  quallities  of  soda. 

Friday  Aug.  12.  Stopped  for  dinner  about  2  o'clock.  Started 
soon  camped  on  Portnough  traviled  23  miles. 

13.  Horses  strayed  off  some  distance  from  camp  started  in 
good  season  stopped  early  for  dinner  drove  on  again  until  near 
sunset  and  camped  on  Ross  Fork  in  deep  valley  on  a  beautiful 
little  stream  traviled  25  miles.  14.  Sunday.  Started  in  good 
season  and  traviled  verry  fast  in  order  to  get  to  the  Fort  early  as 
possible.  Stopped  for  dinner  on  Ross  Fork.  Some  Fort  men 
came  to  camp  started  and  crossed  several  spring  Brooks  camped 
on  Snake  or  Lewis  River  near  Fort  Hall  traviled  25  miles.  15. 
visited  the  Fort  found  it  much  smaller  than  Laramie  but  verry 
well  conducted.  Commenced  writing  a  letter. 

Tuesday  16.  Finished  my  letter  to  my  Parents.  Visited  the 
Fort.  17.  Concluded  not  to  start  today.  Wrote  to  W.  C.  Enosof 
St.  Louis.  Capt.  H.  with  seven  waggons  came  in.  18.  Starting 
is  again  deferred  untill  tomorrow.  19.  Started  about  9  o'clock 
kept  down  the  River.  Crossed  several  marshy  places,  verry  warm 
day  and  much  trouble  with  packs.  Camped  on  the  River,  traviled 
15  miles.  20.  Started  in  good  season  saw  the  American  falls.  It 
is  not  a  perpendicular  fall  but  more  like  rapids  interspersed  with 
large  rocks.  Met  a  large  number  of  Indiana.  Doct.  went  back 
and  traded  fish  and  horse  from  them  stopped  for  dinner  in  a  verry 
bad  place.  Doct.  came  up  started  camped  on  river  traviled  12 
miles. 

Aug.  21.  Sunday.  Concluded  to  wait  for  the  Company  as 
some  are  not  satisfied  to  go  without  a  Pilot.  Company  passed  about 
1  o'clock.  We  packed  iip  and  started  found  them  Camped  about 


16  JOURNAL. 


three  miles  on  the  River.  Mr.  McDonald  came  up  soon.  22d 
Started  without  breakfast  and  traviled  verry  fast  until  8  o'clock 
stopped  on  a  creek  three  hours.  Started  and  drove  on  a  trot 
nearly  all  day,  verry  rocky  hard  for  horses  feet.  The  same  Barren 
Country  covered  with  sage  continues.  Camped  on  a  Little  Brook 
at  5  o'clock  traviled  30  m  good  water  and  grass,  little  wood  suf- 
fered very  much  with  dust. 

Tuesday  23d  Aug.  Started  early  drove  fast.  Came  close  to 
the  river  camped  at  10  on  Goose  Creek.  H.  B.  Company  arrived 
1J  hours  before  us  our  cattle  verry  much  fatigued  concluded  not 
to  try  to  keep  up  with  the  H.  B.  Company  with  our  cattle.  Compa- 
ny started  two  hours  before  us  we  drove  moderately  camped  early 
traviled  20  miles.  Doct.  White  left  us  for  the  H.  B.  Company  whom 
he  intends  to  go  with  to  Fort  Vancouver.  Only  8  men  left  in  our 
Company  without  a  Pilot,  24.  Started  in  good  season  and  trav- 
iled moderately,  fine  cool  day  camped  about  noon.  Giger  and 
others  passed  with  many  animals.  Started  at  2J  o'clock.  Camped 
on  a  verry  pretty  Brook  traviled  18  miles.  Tuesday  Aug.  25. 
Started  at  7J  crossed  two  deep  ravines,  verry  rocky,  passed  an  old 
camping  grd.  at  10J  o'clock  concluded  not  to  stop  drove  on  at  a 
good  pace  decended  into  a  tremendous  valley  with  banks  of 
perpendicular  rock  at  least  200  feet  high  on  the  north  side  a  large 
portion  of  water  issues  out  of  the  rock  nearly  half  way  up.  Camp- 
ed at  3J  o'clock  on  a  large  stream  formed  mostly  by  springs  of  the 
above  description,  traviled  21  miles. 

26.  Started  at  7,  kept  down  the  Creek  which   is   verry   rapid 
left  the  Creek   and   decended  a  steep  hill.     Crossed  a   beautiful 
stream.     Camped  at  11.     Started  at  2  passed  some  Indian  Lodges 
traded  fish  both  fresh  and  dry  left  the  river  rose  a  tremendous  hill 
travellid  on  till  dark  no   appearance  of  water  verry  dark  until  9 
when  the  moon  arose  decended  a  tremendous  hill  found  the  river 
we  left  and  camped  at  10  o'clock   night  in  a  miserable  sandy  and 
rocky  place  traviled  30  M. 

27.  Saturday.     Started  at  8  kept  down  the  river  on  the  side  of 
a  steep  bank  where  we  were  obliged  to  all  follow  one  narrow  path 
cross  some   steep  ravines  camped  at  12£  on  an    island  in    Snake 
river  good  grass  concluded  to  stay  here  today  and  let  our  animals 
recruit,  traviled  10  M. 

28.  Started  early  kept  down  the  river  along  a  steep  side-hill 
saw  many  Indians  who  live  along  the  river  and  subsist  principally 
on  fish  traded  fresh  fish  from  them.     Sunday   28,  Aug.     Camped 
11 J  for  dinner  several  Indians  in  camp.     Left  the  river  for  a  short 
time  after  dinner  saw  large  sandbanks  drifted  like  snow.  Camped 
on  a  slew  of  the  river  verry  high  grass,   trav.   18   M.   horses   got 
frightened  and  ran  some  distance   from   camp,  probably   wolves. 

29.  Started  at  7,  cold  morning  followed  down  the  river  awhile 
left  the  river  verry  barren    country    less    sage    than    formerly. 
Crossed  a  large  branch  followed  it  through  a  tremenous  gap  in  the 
mountain  for  at  least  two  miles  the  rock  standing  up  on  each  side 
probably  200  ft.     Camped  for  dinner  at  the  River  many   Lodges 
near  several  came  into  camp.     29.     Followed  down  the  river  after 


JOURNAL.  17 


dinner  crossed  on  to  an  Island  &  camped  near  sunset,  trav.  20  M. 

30.  Started  at  7  kept  down   the  River  a  short  time  took  din- 
ner on  a  small  Branch  verry  poor  grass.     Find  the  country  grow- 
ing more  barren  not  even  producing  sage.     Camped  near  sunset 
on  a  beautiful  little  Branch  in  a  valley  surrounded  on  three  sides 
by  high  hills  traviled  18  miles. 

31.  Followed  down  the  Branch  to  the  river  about  L|  miles  in 
search  of  the  horses,  found   the  River  as  well  as  the  Branch  flow- 
ing among  high  cliffs  of  rock  with  scarcely  room  for  a  path  on  its 
Banks.     31st  Aug.     Started  at  7J  rose  a  long  hill   astonishingly 
barren  country  decended  to  the  river  stopped  for  dinner  tolerable 
good  grass,  found  Indians  pleanty  towards  evening.     Camped  near 
their  village  poor  grass  trav.  18.  M. 

Thursday  Sept.  1st,  1842.  Many  Indians  come  to  camp  traded 
pleanty  of  fish  started  8,  crossed  2  small  streams  which  are  said  to 
be  hot  water.  It  was  discovered  by  some  of  our  party  attempt- 
ing to  drink  they  said  the  water  burned  their  hands  took  dinner 
on  the  on  the  river  verry  warm  day  poor  grass.  Camped  on  the 
river  poor  grass  traviled  15  miles. 

Friday  Sept.  2d.  Started  at  8J  no  alteration  in  the  general 
appearance  of  the  country  took  dinner  on  the  river  verry  poor  grass 
Camped  in  the  evening  on  Warior  River  a  Branch  of  the  Snake 
traviled  14  miles. 

3d.  Started  7J  crossed  W.  R.  arrived  at  Fort  Boyzea  at  9. 
Crossed  over  Snake  River  in  a  Canoe  to  the  Fort  which  stands  on 
the  north  side  of  the  river  procured  some  Drovisions.  Crossed 
back  traviled  down  the  river  a  short  distance  &  camped  for  din- 
ner. Fort  B.  is  a  new  Establishment.  It  has  been  a  short  time  in 
operation  but  is  not  yet  completed.  We  saw  but  one  white  man 
who  was  French.  The  company  left  the  Fort  on  Thursday. 

Sept.  3d.  At  the  Fort  we  tasted  musk  mellon  but  of  a  very 
indifferent  quallity.  They  raise  corn  &  a  few  other  vegetables  in 
small  quantities.  From  the  fort  we  saw  a  large  smoke  at  a  dis- 
tance supposed  to  proceed  from  a  volcanick  mountain.  Left 
camp  at  11  o'clock  &  traveled  briskly  over  a  sandy  country  suf- 
fered considerable  for  water  as  the  day  was  exceedingly  hot  came 
to  a  creek  about  6  oclock  &  never  was  water  to  me  more  excepta- 
ble  though  of  a  very  indifferent  quality,  passed  down  the  Creek 
a  short  distance  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  &  found  boiling  water 
running  out  of  the  ground.  It  made  its  appearance  just  above 
the  age  of  the  water  in  the  River  in  a  Boiling  state  for  over  a  hund- 
red yards  it  runs  more  or  less.  One  of  our  company  cooked  a  fish 
which  he  caught  from  the  creek  in  about  two  minutes  perfectly 
through.  The  water  was  so  salt  that  the  fish  was  sufficiently 
seasoned.  Crossed  the  Creek  &  camped  common  grass  traviled 
15  m. 

4.  Concluded  to  stay  here  &  let  our  cattle  &  horses  rest  to- 
day. Two  of  our  company  getting  impatient  left  us  this  morning 
spent  the  day  repairing,  washing,  &c. 

Monday  5th  Sept.  Started  at  7-J  oclock  left  the  Creek  our 
road  led  mostly  through  rallies  we  found  more  grass  &  and  less 


i8  JOURNAL. 


sage  than  common  came  to  a  little  water  at  10  o'clock  but  con- 
cluded not  to  stop.  Exceedingly  warm  came  to  a  small  stream 
at  2  oclock  &  camped.  Cattle  far  behind  &  rr.uch  fatigued  trav- 
ilcd  16  m. 

6.  Started  at  7J  followed  down  the  stream  found  Snake  River 
close  by  followed  it  down  about  one  mile  &  struck  across  a  moun- 
tain.    Came  to  a  creek  at  10  oclock.    S copped  for  dinner  3  hours  our 
path  wound  along  the  sides  of  mountains  &  frightful  precipices  & 
in  many  places  if  our  animals  make  one  miss-step  it  would  be  cer- 
tain death.     The  path  continued  up  &  down  rocky  hills  until  we 
came  to  a  good  camping  ground  about  5  oclock  traviled  13  m. 

7.  Started  at  7J  rose  a  most  tremendous  hill   the   highest  I 
have  rose  on  the  rout,  got  a  fall  from  a  horse  hurt  my  foot  some. 
The  road  is  more  precipitous  than  ever,  up  &  down  and  constant- 
ly over  rocks.     Crossed  several  streams.     Stoped  for  dinner  at  10 
oclock  started  at  1,  and  commenced  climbing  hflls  again  crossed 
several  small  streams  and  found  good  grass  most  of  the  way  came 
to  the  stream  on  which   we  camped  last  night.     Camped  at  4  oc 
traviled  10  miles. 

Thursday  8,  Sept.  Horses  strayed  far  from  camp  and  instead 
of  an  early  start  as  we  intended  we  got  off  at  9  oclock  we  left  the 
Branch  and  gradually  a  rose  a  long  hill.  Stopped  for  dinner  on  a 
small  stream  at  12  oclock  started  at  2J  &  continued  to  rise  by 
degrees. 

The  country  over  which  we  have  traviled  to  day  is  mostly  cov- 
ered with  Bunch  Grass  which  the  Horses  are  very  fond  of.  Wo 
at  last  found  the  top  of  the  mountain  at  a  distance  we  could  see 
what  we  suppose  to  be  the  Blue  mountains  and  they  struck  us 
with  terror  their  lofty  peaks  seemed  a  resting  place  for  the  clouds. 
Below  us  was  a  large  plain  and  at  some  distance  we  could  discover 
a  tree  which  we  at  once  recognized  as  "the  lone  tree"  of  which  we 
had  before  heard.  We  made  all  possible  speed  and  at  7^  o'clock 
the  advance  party  arrived  at  the  Tree  nearly  an  hour  before  the 
cattle.  The  Tree  is  a  large  Pine  standing]  in  the  midst  of  an  im- 
mense plain  intirely  alone.  It  presented  a  truly  singular  appearance 
and  I  believe  is  respected  by  every  tra viler  through  this  almost 
Treeless  Country.  Within  a  few  yards  we  found  pleanty  of  water 
and  we  soon  made  ourselves  comfortable  by  a  good  fire.  As  soon 
as  we  arrived  at  the  top  of  the  hill  in  sight  of  the  Blue  moun- 
tains felt  an  uncommon  chilly  wind  which  increased  so  as  to  be 
uncomfortable  befora  we  arrived.  As  soon  as  we  reached  the  val- 
ley we  found  our  old  friend  Sage  flourishing  in  a  most  unwelcome 
manner.  The  grass  about  camp  was  not  good,  traviled  18  miles. 

Friday  9.  Sept.  Horses  far  from  camp  this  morning,  found 
pleanty  of  frost  on  our  beds  and  nil  about.  Left  camp  at  8  oclock 
but  was  a  long  time  finding  the  right  trail.  Cold  wind  from  the 
15.  mountains  on  tops  of  which  we  soon  discovered  heaps  of  snow. 

Came  to  a  large  Creek  which  we  followed  a  while  &  stopped 
for  dinner  at  \"2\  oclock.  Started  at  3  crossed  the  Creek.  Crossed 
2  more  CIVCN— <">n  and  camped  at  4^  oclock.  We  should  have 
traviled  on  but  we  was  afraid  of  being  in  the  night  without  water, 


JOURNAL.  19 


this  is  the  difficulty  of  traviling  without  a  Pilot.  Found  good 
wood,  water,  and  grass  about  at  our  camp  travilcd  11  miles.  Cold 
wind. 

Sept.  10.  Saturday  verry  cold  morning.  Horses  far  from 
camp.  Started  at  Soclock  found  good  places  for  camping  which 
we  might  have  come  to  last  night.  Commenced  rising  gradually 
at  10  oclock  continued  to  rise  until  12  when  we  came  to  a  tre- 
mendous hill  to  descend.  The  mountains  on  our  left  were 
close  by  they  rose  gradualy  and  were  covered  with  Pine  Trees. 
Our  descent  lasted  for  near  an  hour,  about  midway  of  the  hill  was  a 
little  water  course  crossing  our  path  &  afforded  us  a  rest  ing  place 
around  this  place  were  several  Pine  Trees.  I  noticed  the  White 
Pine  and  the  Spruce  Pine.  Some  were  verry  tall  &  slim.  From 
this  little  grove  down  the  hill  was  more  difficult  all  were  obliged 
to  dismount  for  safety.  It  was  verry  sidling  and  uncomfortable 
rocky.  Below  was  a  most  beautiful  valley  as  I  ever  saw.  We  found 
good  grass,  a  delightful  road,  <&a  fertile  country  in  the  valley,  we 
crossed  some  small  water  courses  and  camp  on  a  beautiful  Creek 
at  3  o'clock  good  grass,  &  water  &  an  abundance  of  wood 
traviled  20  miles  found  several  well  beaten  trails  leading  from 
camp  but  none  appeared  fresh.  After  dark  two  Indians  came  to 
camp  on  horseback.  They  were  of  a  different  tribe  from  any 
which  we  had  seen.  They  had  traps  and  appeared  to  have  been 
out  but  a  short  time.  They  told  us  that  we  could  get  to  Wala 
Wala  in  3  days. 

Sept.  11.  Sunday  started  at  7J  o'clock  with  our  Indians  for 
Guide.  They  took  us  a  northern  direction  &  put  us  on  the  com- 
panies trail  about  10  o'clock  we  then  came  to  the  Creek  which  we 
had  left  in  the  morning  and  followed  it  down.  We  discovered  a 
band  of  Horses  on  the  other  side  of  the  Creek.  Our  Indians  left  us 
about  noon  and  crossed  the  Creek  to  these  Horses  which  were  be- 
ing driven  in  the  same  direction  we  were  going.  We  saw  more 
Horses  ahead.  Came  to  an  Indian  village  at  2  o'clock  and  camped 
near  them,  traviled  18  miles.  PlfiCfOit 

The  rirst  thing  to  be  attended  to  after  we  camped  was  to  as- 
sertain  whether  we  could  get  any  provisions  from  the  Indians. 
We  found  to  our  great  joy  they  had  pleanty  and  instead  of  starv- 
ing as  we  expected  we  were  able  to  trade  enough  fish  to  last  us  to 
Dr.  Whitmans.  There  were  several  lodges  &  they  were  well  clad 
&  had  hundreds  of  good  horses  and  an  abundance  of  provision. 
I  have  seen  no  Indians  since  I  started  which  appear  so  happy  & 
well  provided  for  as  these.  The  beneficial  influence  of  the  Mis- 
sionary Society  appears  to  have  reached  here.  They  attended 
morning  and  evening  devotion  in  our  camp. 

12  Sept.  Monday.  Horses  strayed  far  from  camp  and  scattered 
among  the  Indians'  Horses.  The  Indians  showed  moral  honesty 
by  bringing  horses  to  us  which  had  strayed  by  themselves  to  some 
distance.  Started  at  9J  o'clock  several  Indians  started  with  us 
one  continued  &  said  he  would  go  to  Dr.  Whitmans.  Com- 
menced raising  a  Mountain  by  degrees.  Came  to  trees,  at  first 
quite  thin  &  without  underbrush  having  fine  grass.  But  as  we 


20  JOURNAL. 


arose  we  came  to  a  densly  timbered  country,  mostly  pine  &  fir. 
The  most  beautiful  tall  straight  trees.  Our  traviling  through  the 
timber  was  quite  difficult  as  the  path  wound  back  and  forth  and 
many  logs  lay  across  it.  We  decended  &  arose  a  tremendous  hill 
and  about  3  o'clock  our  Indian  Guide  beckoned  us  to  take  a  by 
path  to  find  water,  we  did  so  and  after  traveling  a  few  hundred 
yards  found  a  little  opening  of  timber  &  pleanty  of  good  water  & 
some  grass.  Camped  here  for  the  night  trav.  10  miles.  Cool  & 
cloudy  considerable  of  rain  after  dark.  Horses  got  frightened  tied 
some  up  &  the  rest  remained  near. 

Sept.  13  Tuesday.  Started  at  8£  and  followed  back  our  path 
until  we  came  to  the  main  trail  when  we  pusued  our  dismal  rout, 
Our  path  today  led  through  more  dense  places  &  driving  our 
pack  animals  &  cattle  was  almost  impossible.  Occasionally  we 
found  a  clear  spot  frequently  several  acres  together  and  in  the 
forenoon  several  little  springs  of  water,  towards  evening  we  left 
the  timber  and  found  ourselves  on  a  rolling  Prairie  of  good  soil. 
Continued  to  decend  until  near  sunset  when  to  our  great  joy  we 
found  water  and  wood  but  poor  grass.  Camped  traviled  20  miles. 
Sept.  14.  Our  Indian  Guide  told  us  we  would  get  to  Dr. 
Whitman's  today  but  we  hardly  expected  it  as  our  animals  were 
verry  much  jaded.  But  it  was  nearer  than  we  expected  and  we 
'arrived  at  3  o'clock  and  camped  near  his  house  traviled  8  m. 

Dr.  Whitman  is  a  Missionary  of  the  Presbyterian  Order  he  has 
been  in  the  Country  six  years.  He  has  a  verry  comfortable  house 
and  is  farming  to  a  considerable  extent.  He  has  a  Thrashing  Ma- 
chine &  a  grinding  mill  all  under  one  roof  driven  by  water  power. 
Many  Indians  around  him.  I  was  never  more  pleased  to  see  a 
hou^e  or  white  people  in  my  life,  we  were  treated  by  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Whitman  with  the  utmost  kindness.  We  got  what  provision  we 
wanted  on  very  reasonable  terms.  I  have  just  heard  of  the  Death 
of  young  man  who  started  from  Independence  with  us.  He  was 
with  the  Hudson  Bays  Company  and  got  drowned  himself  and 
horse  crossing  the  Snake  River  soon  after  he  left  us.  What  is  to  me 
remarkable  it  was  his  gun  and  by  an  accident  of  his  hand  that  put 
an  end  to  poor  Baily  at  Independence  Rock.  A  small  detach- 
ment, Forces',  from  the  hind  company  came  up. 

Sept.  15.  Having  reed  verry  bad  treatment  from  the  Indians 
we  < --on eluded  to  get  away  from  here  as  soon  at  possible  &  try  to 
iind  more  grass,  some  of  our  company  started  before  noon  but  we 
could  not  get  ready  until  3J  oclock  when  we  started  down  about 
4  miles  and  found  the  rest  of  our  company  camped  in  an  excel- 
ent  spot.  Forces  came  up  also  after  dark.  16.  Started  at  8 
oclock  kept  down  the  Walawala  River  and  camped  at  1  o'clock 
within  3  miles  of  the  Fort.  Traviled  12  miles.  Visited  the  Fort 
saw  Esqr  Crocker,  Doct.  White  had  left  before  noon  in  the  Com- 
panies Boat. 

All  the  foremost  company  had  gone  by  land  except  Esqr.  & 
Moss  who  started  this  evening  to  overtake  them.  I  had  an  intro- 
duction to  Mr.  McKenly  who  is  in  charge  at  the  fort.  The  Fort 
is  rebuilding  now  ha\-ing  lately  been  burnt.  It  is  situated  on  a 


JOURNAL.  21 


miserable  sandy  barren  place  where  the  sand  drifts  with  the  wind 
like  snow.  The  Walla  Walla  River  emties  in  &  forms  the  Co- 
lumbia here. 

17.  Sept.  Saturday  started  at  9  o'clock  drove  to  the  Fort 
found  Mr.  McKenly  from  home  not  to  return  until  evening  could 
not  get  the  Doct's  Things  drove  down  the  river  and  camped, 
traviled  four  miles.  The  rest  of  the  company  went  on.  The 
Banks  of  the  River  on  each  side  present  tremendous  pinacles  of 
rock  mostly  perpendicular.  We  find  considerable  of  sage  yet  in 
places. 

Sept.  18.  Sunday.  Went  to  the  Fort  before  breakfast  and  got 
our  things.  Started  at  9^  o'clock  lost  two  animals  went  back  and 
found  [them]  and  kept  down  the  river,  the  most  of  time  a  steep 
bluff  of  rocks  was  on  our  left  with  occasional  spots  of  grass 
sufficient  for  camping  purposes  stoped  three  hours  for  dinner, 
much  sand  and  frequently  in  large  drifts  camped  near  sunset, 
traviled  12  m. 

Sept.  19.  Started  at  8  a 'clock  drove  on  at  a  good  pace  verry 
warm  day  camped  in  a  good  spot  on  the  river  traviled  15  m. 

Sept.  20.  Started  at  8  o'clock  kept  down  the  river  verry  sandy 
barren  country  destitute  of  timber  (crossed  the  Unadilla).  Cold 
wind  &  little  rain.  Mr.  Spaulding&  Lady  over  took  us  at  noon  rain 
increased.  Camped  at  4  o'clock,  traviled  18  miles.  Considerable 
rain.  Cleared  off  before  bed  time.  Mr.  Gray  called  at  camp  on 
his  return  from  Vancouver. 

21.  Started  at  10  o'clock  and   parted  with  Mr.  &  Mrs.  Spald- 
ing  who  in  consequence  of  some  intelligence  from  Mr.  Gray  re- 
solved to  return.     Cold  wind.     Camped   at  5  o'clock,  traviled  20 
miles. 

22.  Started  late,  cold  wind  bad  road,  traviled  18  miles. 

23.  Started  late,    tremenndous  west  wind,  lost  my  horse  last 
night,  Indians  brought  him  into  camp  this  morning,  verry  rocky 
road  over  steep  sidling  places,  crossed  a  large   creek  about  noon. 
Camped  at  4  o'clock.     Traviled  11  miles. 

24th  Sept.  Started  verry  late,  tremendous  west  wind  &  sand 
drifting  like  snow  in  our  faces,  passed  over  some  large  drifts. 
Came  to  a  tremendous  rapid  Creek,  obliged  to  take  all  our  effects 
over  in  a  canoe  which  was  dangerous.  Passed  tremendous  rocky 
falls  in  the  River.  Large  Indian  town,  traviled  6  m. 

25  Sept.  Sunday,  I  feel  bad  this  morning  in  consequence  of 
getting  wet  yesterday  and  my  eyes  are  much  affected  by  the  fly- 
ing sand.  Started  at  11  o'clock  traviled  over  hills  &  sidling  places, 
saw  a  high  snowy  peak  which  we  understand  to  be  Mt.  Hood.  Passed 
the  Dalls  or  rapids  of  the  river  which  is  a  singular  sight.  Ar- 
rived at  Mt.  Perkins  at  3  o'clock,  found  our  old  company  there, 
traviled  8  miles.  Mr.  Perkins  preached  in  camp  this  evening. 

26.  Visited  Mr.  Perkins  at  his  house.  Was  verry  kindly  rec'd 
and  hospitably  treated,  got  potatoes  &c.  and  started  at  1  o'clock 
with  an  Indian  Guide,  rose  a  long  hill  and  left  the  river,  traviled 
over  the  most  romantic  country  I  have  yet  seen.  The  day  is  verry 
pleasant  indeed  and  the  tall  trees  through  which  we  are  passing 


22  JOURNAL. 


adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  prospect.  On  our  left  arises  Mt. 
Hood  with  its  snowy  peak  glistening  in  the  sunbeams,  on  the 
right  &  about  the  same  distance  Mt.  Helena  which  resembles  Mt. 
Hood  verry  much.  As  we  descended  towards  evening  we  saw  far 
below  us  the  river  flowing  as  it  were  &  dividing  the  two  snowy 
peaks.  We  descended  a  considerable  of  a  hill  and  found  the 
pleasantest  camp,  the  best  wood,  grass,  and  water  we  have  had  in 
a  long  time,  travilled  12  miles. 

27.  Started  early   arose   and    decended   several    rocky   hills. 
Camped  in  the  woods  verry  little  grass  indeed,  traviled  11  ra. 

28.  Started  at  8J,  got  behind  on  account  of  a  mule  being  lost. 
Our  company  left  us.     We  started  at  9  o'clock,  missed  one  of  our 
Indian  horses  but  I  thought  he   was  with    the   other   company. 
We  came  to  a  verry  rapid  river  just  as  they  were  across,  very  dif- 
ficult crossing  on  account  of  large  rocks  and  deep   water,  almost 
impossible  to  get  along  up  the   steep   hills  over  the   rocks  &  be- 
tween the  trees.     Caught  up  with   the   company   at   11   o'clock, 
found  my  horse  not  there  started  back  to  find  him,  found  him  at 
the  camp  we  left  had  much  difficulty  to  get  him  along.     Two  In- 
dians overtook  me  at  the  river  on  my  return  with  5  good    horses. 
I  traviled  with  their,  until  dark   when  we   came  to   an    Indian 
Camp  where  we  concluded  to  sleep.     I   got   a   few  berries   and  a 
little  fish  for  my  supper.     I  crossed  several  rapid  streams  flowing 
from  those  snowy  mountains  before  I  got  to  Camp  where  I  slept. 
We  found  no  grass  for  our  horses  at  all,  traviled  13  mfles. 

29.  Arose  early  after  a  verry  uncomfortable  night's  rest  having 
only  one  blanket  and  a  piece  of  Robe.     My  horses  looked  so  bad 
I  got  one  of  the  Indians  horses  to  ride,  started  early  without  eat- 
ing a  particle,  found  the  road   horrible  beyond   description,  met 
John  Force  soon  who  said  he  had   lost  2  horses  &  was  in  search. 
The  company  had  all  tied  up  their  horses  to  trees  except  the  two 
that  he  had  lost.     He  returned    with  us  and  gave  up  the  search, 
overtook  the  rear  of  the  company   about  10  o'clock.     One  of  our 
mules  had  been  lost  the  day  before  while  I  was  gone  back  for  the 
horse.     The  horse  I  went  back  after  gave  out  from    hunger  &  fa- 
tigue, being  verry  poor,   and  I  was  obliged  to  leave  him   in  the 
woods,  traviled  along  all  day  over  hills  and   precipices,  rocks  and 
mire  holes,  over  logs  and  under  trees  and   across    rapid   streams, 
until  at  sunset  we  found  a  verry  little  grass  not    worth   mention- 
ing &  camped,   traviled  20  miles.     I  found  my  apetite  verry  good 
having  eat  verry  little  in  36  hours. 

30.  Started  early,  found  our  animals  verry  hollow  and  weak, 
passed  down  and  crossed  the  stream  found  considerable  grass  in  2 
miles  from  camp,  traviled  on  until  11  o'clock  when  we  stopped  to 
bait  our  animals  which  were  starving,  started  at  1  and  drove  on 
over  as  bad  and  some  worse  roads  than  ever,  having  frequent  mire 
holes  with  logs  in  them,  traviled  up   and    down    long   hills   and 
stopped  at  dark  with  verry  little  grass  and  the  most  dismal  &  un- 
pleasant camp  I  ever  saw,  traviled  13  miles. 

Sunday,  October  1st,  1842.     My  horse  cannot   be   found    this 
morning,  3  out  of  5  of  our  riding  animals   give  out  so  we  have  to 


JOURNAL.  23 


start  on  foot.  Starting  at  8J  found  my  horse  on  the  way,  horid 
road,  logs&  mud  holes.  Doct.  Whites  American  mare  verrynear 
giving  out,  found  some  grass  and  stopped  atnoon,traviled5miles. 
Concluded  to  stay  here  tonight. 

Oct.  2,  Sunday.  Started  at  9  o'clock  some  bad  road  met  3  of 
the  young  men  who  went  down  first,  arrived  at  their  camp  at  4^ 
o'clock,  good  grass  and  water,  traviled  16  miles. 

3d.  A  few  of  us  accompanied  those  who  were  here  before  us  to 
the  Falls  of  Willamut  where  we  found  many  people  &  considera- 
ble of  buisness.  Saw  Dr.  White  &  others  who  arrived  before  us, 
we  were  handsomely  reed  and  kindly  treated. 

4.  Packed  up  and  started  at  9  oclock  called  at  the  Falls  and 
took  dinner,  found  some  of  the   men    who   came  over  with  us  at 
work  on  a  mill.     Mr.  Jones  &  a  man  by  name  of  Cooke  much  in- 
jured by  blasting  rocks,  drove  on  and  overtook  our  pack.  Camped 
on  a  Creek.     Traviled  10  miles. 

5.  Started  at  9J  crossed  several  streams,  bad  road.     Camped 
in  the  settlements  at  the  house  of  a  Frenchman   who  treated  us 
verry  kindly,  traviled  10  m. 

October  6.  Started  late  took  a  round  about  road  arrive  at  the 
mission  at  2  o'clock,  traviled  10  miles.  Oct.  7.  Rode  about  to 
see  the  country  like  it  much.  This  is  among  the  first  frosty 
nights. 

8.  Went  to  the  mill  with  Mrs.  &   Miss   Brown.     Mr.   Benitt 
and  Pomeroy  together  with  several  young  men  arrived  in  the  set- 
tlement. 

9.  Sunday.     Attended    church    twice   today.     Oct.  10.     Mr. 
Pomeroy  returned  to  the  Falls.     I  crossed    the  River  to   see  the 
country,  stayed  all  night  with  Mr.  O'Neil.     11.     Rainy   morning 
cleared  off  soon.     Crossed  the  River  &   stayed   all    night   at  the 
Doct.   House.      12.    Clear   fine   weather.     13.     Went   with   Mr. 
Shortess  &  Doct.  Babcock  to  Youngs  valley.     Beautiful  country, 
returned  and  wrote  to  my   Father.     14.     Commenced  working*  a 
little.     18.  Oct.     Rainy   morning  cloudy   day.     19.  Oct.    Rainy 
morning,  cloudy  &  thick  mist.     20.     Rainy  morning,  cloudy  day 
&  some  rain,   rainy  night.     21.  Cloudy  morning  and  day. 


Distance  from  Independence  to  Willamette  Falls  according  to  my 
estimate  1746  Miles. 

Laramy  553  miles  Perkins  1656 

Ft.  Hall  1107  W.  Falls  1746 

Walla  Walla  1552 

Pack  No.  i. 

i  Pr.  Blankets  2  Doz.  Butcher  Knives 

Tobaco  i  Bunch  Blue  Agate  Beads 

i  Bunch  Glass  Beads  I      do       Garnishing  Blue 

i      do      Fancy  White  i      do       Fish  Hooks 

i      do       Garnishing  White  i  Piece  Blue  Cloth 
Tobaco,  Powder,  Glass  Beeds,  Fancy  White.  B.  Garnishing,  B.  White 


JOURNAL. 


Butcher  knives,  Blue  Agate  Beeds,  i  Blue  Garnishing  Beeds.  Fish 
Hooks,  Blue  Cloth,  Crawfords  Cloathes,  2  bunch  Bells,  Rice,  Flints. 
2  Gross  Rings,  2  Doz.  Looking  G. ,  i  Blue  Garnishing  Beads,  Crock- 
er's Cloathes,  Red  Cloth,  Lead. 

Pack  No.  2 

Crawfords  Cloathes 
Crockers  Cloathes 

1  Blanket 

2  Bunches  Bells 

Rice  &  Flints 


2  gross  Rings 
2  Doz.  Looking  Glasses 
i  Bunch  Garnishing  Beades 
i  Piece  Red  Cloth 
Bar  Lead. 


Commenced  driving  cart  July  12  1842  noon.      Left  cart  July  28  noon, 

Dr.  White 
To  horse 

Postage 

Soap 

Cash 
Discount,  Bishop 

18  [mutilated] 

"  "  Bill  at  Batavia  [mutilated 
"  f<  Fare  to  Buffalo  [mutilated] 

19  Caps,  Primer,  Mould  tube 
22     Bill  at  Buffalo 

"  "  Tailor  Bill 

' '  "  Fare  to  Cataraugus 

"  "  Dinner 

25     Fare  to  Erie  S.  B. 

24  Bill  at  Erie 

"  "  Fare  to  Pittiburgh 
"  "  Dinner  &  etc 

25  Breakfast  &  etc 
;-r  i  pr.  Gloves 

13    Dinner 
5   Supper 
'£    Breakfast 
§    Dinner  at  Pittsburgh 
•— •  Fare  to  Cincinnati 

20  Sunday  4  p.  on  S.  B. 
Ap.  i  Bridle  &  Saddle 

"  Pantaloons 
"  Theatre  &  sundries 
"  Washing 

2  Bill  at  Cincinnati  2 

"  Fare  to  St.  Louis  o 

7  Expenses  on  boat 
1 7  Sundries  at  St.  Louis  i 

Horse  hire  i 

Spurs,  paper,  pencil  points 
wach  rep — 

21  Bill  at  St.  Louis  10 

""  Fare  to  In     [mutilated]     10 
20  Ib  s.  Sugar  2 

2  "      Saluratus 
Rosin 
Nails 


Dr. 

Apr.  2          Doct.  White  Cr. 

40 

By  Cash                 5 

25 

do                      3     50 

75 

i 

5 

26  Rido  up  from 

sdj 

28  Washing 

6» 

ed] 

"  "  Gun  rep. 

SO 

36    2    15 

Mayilndia  Rubber  &  comb 

iS 

3  75 

""  Caps  &  Cloth  &  etc 

35 

25 

"  "  Fish  hooks  &  line 

25 

50 

4    Hobbles 

19 

50 

15    Soap  &  Hat                           i 

13 

3  55 

17    Bill  at  Independence 

75 

i 

Paid  for  Soap 

75 

633 

M.  Crawford  to  Dr.  White  Dr 

50 

i  Pack  Saddle                             2 

50 

50 

I  Belt  and  Scabbard                  i 

oo 

3i 

Powder 

54 

38 

Provisions  ect.  at  McCarty      7 

05 

50 

Bill  for  Sundries  at  Indepe'nd- 

38 

ence                                        8 

30 

50 

Noland's  Board  Bill                   3 

13 

4 

Pasture 

38 

i  50 

Bill 

25 

3 

"           Dishes                      i 

85 

3  50 

Bar  Lead 

IS 

50 

St.  Louis  Exchange  Bill         10 

<!0 

50  Fare  to  Independence  S.  B.  10  oo 
38        Blankets  8  50 

75        Saddle  do  i  50 

50  Horse  for  Cublette  25  oo 

50  Fare  from  River  to  Independ- 
ence i  50 
Ballance  due  I  25 


50 
06 

37 


Alum 
2  Bags 
Augur 
Tea 


$82  94 

25 
i  75 

81 
5  25 


JOURNAL. 


Waggon  Whip 

i  oo                Harness 

5  oo 

Trace  Chains 

2  50                 Mule  Chollar 

I  25 

Hames 

2  oo                Box 

38 

Coffee  Mill 

i  oo                Blacksmith's  Bill 

6  25 

Blacksmith's  Bill 

3  37 

Towels 

25                                            5 

41  49 

Blind  Bridles 

3  oo 



Spade 

t  25 

8  30 

Act  of  wheat  taken  by   Crawford.  Act  of  wheat  taken  by  O' 

Neil. 

Bu 

Bu 

Sept.  17.  Sent  to  mill  (w) 

2     Sept.  24  Sent  to  mill  w 

I# 

Oct.   23.  Smith  got  (w) 

25     Sent  to  mill  w 

2 

"  "    28.  C.    Applegate  got  w 

5     Richardson  got  w 

12 

'    29.  J.  Applegate  got  w 

5               large  measure 

Campbell  for  Jones  w 

6l/2  Nov.  19  Richardson  got  w      25 

Mathena  w 

Millihan  w 

25 

Act  of  money  Reed  by  Crawford 

for  Ferrying 
Hembree 
N.  Ford 
J.  Garrison 
Amos  Cook 

A.  D.  Smith 
I.  Jones 

W.  Rice 
C.  Reed 
E.  Garrison 
H.  Campbell 

B.  Williams 
Stewart 

E.  Garrison 
Catholic  Mission 

Tatton 
A.  Hembree 
L. H.  Judson 
Thos.  Smith 
Painter 

Blackfoot  &  Brenerd 
John  Campbell 
Dorson 
Giger 
Osborne 
P.  Armstrong 


i  oo 
5  oo 
3  oo 
5  oo 

12   00 

7  50 
50 
50 
i  oo 
3  oo 
i  25 

I    00 

3  oo 
3  oo 
i  50 
75 

i  50 
i  oo 

I    OO 


Act  of  money  Reed  by  O'Neil 

for  Ferrying 

G.  Hines  5  oo 

E.  White  7  50 

D.  Waldo  2  36 

R.  Shortess  5  oo 

L.  D.  Keyser  13  oo 

J.  Garrison  2  20 

J.  Manning  5  oo 

J.  Applegate  5  co 

Dr.  Babcock  3  oo 

A.  Beers  5  oo 

B.  Williams  3  76 
G.  Gay  10  oo 
R.  M'Cary  5  oo 
Thos.  Cockram  5  oo 
Francis  Fletcher  5  oo 


Act  of  Potatoes  taken  By 

Crawford  Bush 

Smith  had  i8>^ 

8  oo  Richardson  12 

2  50  Crawford  16 
i  25 

50  Act  of  corn  ears 

i  25            Crawford  gBu 

5  oo  Crawford  3^ 

Eeds  i % 

Pickett  i 

Jones  7^2 

Nov  21  I  got  50  sheaves  Jones  oats  Dec  27  I  got  i  Bushel  Jones  wheat 


22  I  got  25 
I  got  75 
I  got  of  Mission  wheat 
Jany.  8      Bushels 
Feb.     2^  Bushels 
3       Bushels 


Jan     4 

"      22 

Feb  6 

"     ii 
Mar  4 

"     io 
Apr 


;* 


26 


JOURNAL. 


lS>£  NOV22  2 

Apr.  8th  got  iol/2  Dec  10  i        " 

Dec  17  2-5" 

Picket  worked  for  me  cleaning  wheat  2  days 

Thrashing  &c.  oats       2      " 

Dec  20.  I  delivered  at  the  mill  35  Bushels  of  wheat  for  Applegate 
and  had  4^  of  it  ground  for  myself.  February  20  I  delivered  23^ 
Bush  of  wheat  for  Applegate  making  in  all  58^  Bushels  one  fourth  of 
which  I  have  for  hauling.  O.  D.  Smith  deposited  23  bus.  wheat  in 
the  mill  for  me. 

2  bu. 
2  bu. 
2  bu. 

268  Ibs  Flour 
4  bu. 
13 


Joel  Walker  got  for  me 

I  got 
Dec.  14  Pickett  got 

"     20  I  got 
Feb.  20  I  got 


Settled  up  23 

Picket  &  Jones  commenced    boarding  Saturday   Dec.  7.     Dec.  n 
Jones  helped  me  get  my  hogs  over  the  River. 
J.  Jones  Dr. 

To  i  Boar  Shoat     5  oo 
To  i  week  Board  2  50 
To  riding  girts  &  trying  lard     i  50 
To  paid  Pickett  2  60 

J.Jones   Cr. 
By  i  sow     25  oo 
By  29  Ibs  1  isc  4  35 

Mr.  Carter  &  myself  cleaned  400  Bushels  of  Mission  wheat  for 
which  we  have  1-14.  We  also  thrashed  and  cleaned  379  Bushels  for 
which  we  have  y%. 

I  move  in  Garrison  house  Saturday  Nov.  10  '44. 
Nov.  20  A.  Beers  Cr  By  5^  Ibs  of  lard  .87. 
A.  Beers  Bv  Ibs  lard. 


